Online Plus Size Sewing & Patterning Class | Bluprint Review

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I regularly talk about the challenges of plus size fashion design, namely that there is a MASSIVE lack of resources for learning how to design for plus.

As I’ve been working on my own collection, I’ve searched out resources to help me manage this learning curve. (Mostly, it’s been a crap ton of trial and error.)

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I’ve shared more resources in this blog post, but I wanted to do an in-depth review of “Plus-Size Pattern Fitting & Design” with Barbara Deckert on Craftsy.

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As fall approaches, I’ve really amped up my time in the fashion studio. . I’m on the tail end of my collection, creating the last few pieces. (For new Instagram friends, I’m creating a luxury fashion collection for sizes 4-30!). I made the tough choice not to fly out for NYFW, because I want to *SHOW* at NYFW. I’ve attended for the last 3 years, networking and meeting people in the industry. . But at a certain point, you have to show up with the work. No one cares that you’re “working on something,” ya know? They want to SEE IT. TOUCH IT. React to it. . So catch me crying and swearing at pattern paper and muslin (the fabric used to prototype). At this point, sheer grit and a “Fuck you!” attitude is going to carry me over the finish line. . And I have to tell y’all – being cheered on by you in my DMs when I share stories from the studio acts as a sort of light to me. Doing this work is lonely. Being here when most of my friends and chosen queer family members are time zones away is so hard. The daily discipline of showing up and doing the work, sometimes to rip it apart and do it again til it’s perfect – is hard. Thank you for cheering me on, asking questions and making jokes about the tools I’m using. I so appreciate it, and words can’t even express it. Thank you for seeing me and believing in me. . Let’s do this thing. ?? . (Also, fun fact. The paper pattern pieces you see are for a size 28/30 gown.). . ?: Mentor extraordinaire and all around genius, @fashionsewschool . #emergingdesigner #inclusivefashion #plussizefashion #wewearwhatwewant #effyourbeautystandards #moodfabrics #queerfashion #queerartist #couturesewing #createandcultivate #fempreneur #bossbabe

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TL;DR: If you’re trying to decide whether or not to get this class, GET IT. I’ve been sewing and patterning for years, and I got some very helpful info out of it.

Purchase the class here.

Fat Positivity from the Get Go!?

Something that I TOTALLY didn’t expect was the instructor, Barbara Deckert, to talk about the fat positive and body positive political movements at the beginning of the class.

She fully goes into why she started sewing for herself, and is compassionate/kind about bodies throughout the course.

There is some discussion of “flattering,” but overall I was impressed!

Okayyy, Barbara!! Get political!!

11 Modules – Fit Variation, Fullness & Adjustments

One of the hardest parts of sewing for plus size bodies is that we all carry our weight in different places! In the various modules, Barbara Deckert discusses how to make various adjustments for weight in the back (upper back and lower), larger upper arms, hanging bellies, etc.

Go off, Barbara!!

She really knows her stuff!

Creating a Custom Dressform

Finding a plus size dressform is a WHOLE thing, mostly because dressforms show “ideal” hourglass bodies. And go up to like, a mass market size 20.

-_-

Barbara shows us how to modify dress forms with padding, as well as how to make a dress form with about $10 of materials.

Heck yes!

Pro-tip: Don’t use duct tape to make a dressform!

Customizing Commercial Patterns

Can I tell you a secret? It is MUCH easier to design for plus sizes using commercial patterns as body blocks, and then changing them for the design you want.

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Starting from scratch using standard pattern making practices doesn’t really work. What works for “straight sizes” doesn’t necessarily translate to plus.

In the class, Barbara Deckert shows students how to modify commercial patterns, and how to decide how much to add in each spot.

CRITICAL info for customizing commercial patterns!!

Fittings FTW

I really appreciate how honest Barbara was throughout the class, making it clear that the true test would come with doing fittings on the body. Going from 2D patterns to a 3D garment can be a little, well, wonky, and she prepares students with the sure knowledge they’ll need to make some adjustments in muslin when the garment is done.

Overall, I Highly Recommend This Course

Overall, I highly recommend this course to plus size designers, sewists and those looking to expand their current fashion lines to plus. The information is clear, actionable and really sets you up to begin working in your own sewing studio.

Purchase The Course HERE!

Purchase the course here.

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